BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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At London Fashion Week, Simone Rocha unveiled her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection at the historic Goldsmiths’ Hall, captivating audiences with a blend of nostalgia and modernity. The show featured surprise appearances by notable figures such as Fiona Shaw, Alexa Chung, Bel Powley, and Andrea Riseborough, each bringing a unique presence to the runway. Shaw, renowned for her iconic roles and Irish heritage, embodied the collection’s themes of stoicism and character, donning a black satin floor-length gown adorned with silver chains. Chung showcased a bold ensemble comprising a faux fur bralette, an oversized leather jacket, and a black skirt, exemplifying the collection’s playful yet rebellious spirit.
Rocha drew inspiration from the classic fable “The Tortoise and the Hare” and her own school days in Dublin, infusing the collection with elements reminiscent of school uniforms and childhood tales. This influence was evident in the incorporation of faux fur hares, which models carried as stoles draped over their shoulders or as clutches, adding a playful touch to the ensembles. The collection artfully balanced themes of innocence and rebellion, with pieces ranging from floral cardigans paired with matching shorts to ribbon-laced pastel pink dresses and sheer slips.
A notable shift in this season’s collection was Rocha’s exploration of darker tones and textures. Predominantly featuring black ensembles, the designs were punctuated by tattered textures and fragmented details, creating an atmosphere of haunting nostalgia. Leather jackets and steampunk-inspired outerwear paid homage to early 20th-century silhouettes, while slashed faux fur coats suggested a blend of distressed luxury and controlled deconstruction. This departure from her signature ethereal femininity showcased Rocha’s versatility and willingness to delve into more complex narratives.
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The menswear component of the collection was equally compelling, featuring ruffled rugby tops, bead-embellished suiting, and belted fishtail parkas. These pieces maintained a delicate balance between fragility and strength, romance and edginess, reflecting Rocha’s nuanced approach to contemporary masculinity. Accessories such as resin tortoise clutches and faux fur bloomers further emphasized the collection’s thematic depth and attention to detail.
The choice of Goldsmiths’ Hall as the venue added a layer of grandeur and historical significance to the presentation. The opulent chandeliers and ornate architecture provided a striking contrast to the collection’s darker aesthetic, enhancing the overall impact of the show. This juxtaposition underscored Rocha’s ability to merge the past with the present, creating a dialogue between tradition and innovation.
Simone Rocha’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection stood out at London Fashion Week for its rich storytelling, innovative designs, and the seamless integration of personal and cultural narratives. By blending elements of childhood fables, school day memories, and historical fashion references, Rocha crafted a collection that resonates on multiple levels, inviting audiences to reflect on the interplay between past experiences and contemporary identity.
