BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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The Spring 2026 collection from Emmy Kasbit arrived at Lagos Fashion Week as a bold declaration of renewal. Creative director Emmanuel Okoro introduced the collection under the statement ,“This is not a continuation, it’s a rebirth.” Drawing on the legacy of King Jaja of Opobo and his roots in Eastern Nigeria, Okoro travelled to the king’s home region to study his life, style and environment. From this research emerged a collection grounded in cultural memory and modern tailoring.
The show opened with a theatrical projection: a black-and-white image of King Jaja seated on a carved wooden throne, followed by a model in a woven hat and matching brown shirt and trousers, carrying an oversized shoulder bag. The look referenced both the king’s regality and a ’70s-era Nigeria aesthetic. A significant shift came from Kasbit’s move away from bold prints and logos towards formal craftsmanship and material innovation. Silk, linen and deadstock wool were explored, and fabric manipulation became central: fringe detailing, stretched silks, and layered textures replaced earlier signature motifs.
Stand-out looks included a brown blazer with cream trousers paired with an oversized fringed bag, and a closing fuchsia pink fringed coat and skirt ensemble that resonated with dramatic authority. In its entirety, the collection felt less about surface hype and more about legacy, refinement and rebirth. By anchoring in narrative, telling what King Jaja might wear were he in Lagos today, Emmy Kasbit positioned itself at the intersection of heritage and the contemporary.
For a fashion house that has trafficked in vibrant logos and loud prints, this turn signals maturity and intention. The rye of regality, the craftsmanship of tailoring, and the innovation of material usage made the spring collection something more than seasonal, it felt like a statement. Emmy Kasbit’s rebirth may well be the moment that shifts perception: from Lagos label with ambition, to African atelier with global voice.
