BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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Tyla, the South African global pop phenomenon, is no stranger to turning heads with her fearless fashion choices. From couture runways to red carpets, she’s consistently proven herself as more than just a chart-topping artist–as a fashion force in her own right. Recently, Tyla elevated her sartorial narrative by stepping out in breathtaking pieces designed by Tolu Coker, the British-Nigerian visionary celebrated for intertwining African identity with forward-thinking design. This fashion moment, spotted just ahead of the 2025 Met Gala, isn’t just about aesthetics–it’s a cultural statement laced with intention, history, and storytelling.
Tolu Coker, a Central Saint Martins alumna, has steadily carved a name for herself as one of London’s most exciting emerging designers. Since launching her namesake label in 2018, she’s been lauded for her multidisciplinary approach to fashion, skillfully fusing illustration, design, and activism into a singular voice that champions the complexities of diasporic Black identity. What makes Coker’s work stand out is her fearless incorporation of Yoruba heritage, her commitment to sustainability through the use of upcycled and deadstock materials, and her signature approach to deconstructing the aesthetics of cultural memory.
Tyla’s recent choice to wear Tolu Coker’s design couldn’t be more fitting. The designer’s Fall 2025 collection, titled Ori–a Yoruba term that reflects one’s inner spirit or destiny–was a bold tribute to Yoruba spirituality and evolving Black dress codes, spanning from Aladura church garments to British tailoring cues. Similarly, her Spring/Summer 2025 collection Olapeju paid homage to her mother and the vibrant energy of London’s migrant communities during the ’60s and ’70s, bringing forth equestrian silhouettes, sharply cinched tailoring, and fabrics imbued with soul and story. With such narrative-rich garments, Coker doesn’t just create clothes; she archives lived experiences.
Tyla, whose artistic expression consistently intersects with African pride, global glamor, and experimental fashion, appears to be forging a new era of fashion diplomacy–one that champions African voices on a global stage. Her recent fashion spree in New York City, featuring a pair of dramatic Roberto Cavalli ensembles, has already ignited style conversations. But her choice to don Tolu Coker’s designs stands out as a bold affirmation of shared cultural narratives–Black womanhood, African excellence, and fashion that speaks louder than words.
The synergy between Tyla and Coker is more than visual; it’s a convergence of mission. Both women navigate creative spaces with the intention to honor their heritage while challenging the mainstream to embrace multidimensional African identities. In a world where fashion can often be a hollow exercise in aesthetics, their collaboration infuses meaning, memory, and identity into every stitch and silhouette.
As the 2025 Met Gala looms, Tyla’s fashion choices are already generating buzz. And with Tolu Coker’s craftsmanship in the mix, expect something monumental. This is more than a look. It’s a legacy in the making.
