TOLU COKER UNVEILS AW 25 COLLECTION TITLED “ORI – UPON REFLECTION”

British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker has unveiled her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, “ORI – Upon Reflection,” a profound exploration of identity, heritage, and spirituality. The collection draws inspiration from the Yoruba concept of “Ori,” which signifies one’s inner essence and destiny. Coker’s presentation delves into how garments can serve as vessels for memory, culture, and personal narrative, transforming fashion into a medium of storytelling. 

The immersive showcase featured models adorned in garments that seamlessly blend traditional African attire with contemporary European tailoring. Influences from Aladura churches, Candomblé, Lucumí, and Black spiritual practices from Louisiana and Haiti were evident, reflecting the rich culture of the African diaspora. Coker’s designs incorporated hand-dyed and upcycled textiles, plush jacquards, and clean tailoring, honoring the craftsmanship found across Africa. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/DGiI1WYNCWz/?igsh=MWs4dzNmM3R2ZXQw 

Photographed by Rashidi Noah

Enhancing the sensory experience, Grammy-winning producer Gaetan Judd led a live band that composed music in real-time, embodying the creative process behind the collection. The presentation space was transformed into a replica of Coker’s atelier, allowing attendees to witness the transition from conceptualization to tangible art. This meticulous curation offered an intimate glimpse into Coker’s world, emphasizing the depth and intentionality of her designs. 

Collaborations with esteemed artisans further elevated the collection’s narrative. Footwear designer Manolo Blahnik contributed to the collection, while milliner Virna Pasquinelli crafted sculpted hats, infusing contemporary glamour into the historically rich garments. Coker’s work challenges conventional fashion norms, positioning clothing as living archives that celebrate and preserve cultural legacies.