BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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Kenzo‘s Fall/Winter 2025
The Womenswear Fashion Show, held at the Palais de Chaillot in Paris, marked a significant moment for the brand, presenting its first dedicated women’s collection in eight years. The event showcased a fusion of punk-inspired tailoring and British streetwear aesthetics, signaling a fresh direction under the guidance of the womenswear studio led by Joshua A. Bullen, a Givenchy alum.
The collection departed from Kenzo’s traditional jungle prints, embracing a rebellious streak with shawl-collared tuxedo jackets that melded into kimono shapes, low-slung harem pants, and visible lingerie details. The designs exuded an underground energy, reminiscent of East London’s edgy fashion scene, while maintaining the brand’s signature sophistication.
The soundtrack featured iconic punk and rock artists such as the Sex Pistols, Patti Smith, and Blondie, enhancing the show’s edgy atmosphere. This musical selection underscored the collection’s fusion of Savile Row precision with deconstructed streetwear elements, reflecting a dynamic interplay between tradition and modernity.
A notable highlight was the introduction of Kenzo’s new emblem: a wide-eyed rabbit. Guests received T-shirts and crayons in metallic envelopes adorned with this motif, symbolizing the brand’s playful yet sophisticated approach to fashion. This emblem encapsulated the collection’s blend of whimsy and refinement, resonating with the show’s overall aesthetic.
The Kenzo FW25 women’s collection is inspired by a 1979 sketch by Kenzo Takada, the boisterous bunnies are translated as cheeky screen prints, precise embroideries and even painted motifs on the bare skin. First as a fluffle of bunny rabbits on a hand-crafted vest, and later as a floppy-eared hooded jacket in baby blue and pink teddy bear plush.
Kenzo also debuted its capsule collection with New Era Cap embroidered with FW 25 illustrations and the collection’s atelier member autograph treatment.
The front row was adorned with a constellation of celebrities, reflecting the show’s high-profile allure. Notable attendees included musicians Andre 3000,rapper JID, Pharrell Williams and Maluma, who have previously graced Kenzo’s events, adding star power to the occasion.
The runway show was an energetic spectacle, with models navigating a dynamic setup that enhanced the collection’s themes of movement and travel. This immersive experience captivated attendees, underscoring Kenzo’s commitment to innovative and engaging presentations.
Kenzo’s Fall/Winter 2025 Womenswear Collection successfully blended nostalgia with contemporary flair, reflecting a journey through cultural exchange and innovative design. The brand continues to redefine its aesthetic, honoring its heritage while embracing modern influences, under the new creative direction.
The event concluded with an air of anticipation, as fashion enthusiasts and critics alike lauded Kenzo’s bold new direction. The collection’s fusion of punk elements with traditional tailoring signaled a promising evolution for the brand, setting the stage for future innovations in its womenswear line.
The collection paid tribute to the house’s pop-art ingenuity. However, creative director Nigo was absent from Paris due to a commercial commitment, and design director Joshua A. Bullen opted out of the traditional finale bow.
As the fashion world continues to evolve, Kenzo’s Fall/Winter 2025 Womenswear Fashion Show stands as a testament to the brand’s ability to adapt and innovate. By embracing contemporary influences while honoring its rich heritage, Kenzo has reaffirmed its position at the forefront of the fashion industry, captivating audiences worldwide.
