BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
No Comments
British‑Nigerian designer Tolu Coker opened London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 with her most autobiographical collection yet: Survivor’s Remorse. The immersive runway at 180 Studios on 180 Strand was anchored in cultural storytelling and personal memory, drawing a clear line from West London neighbourhoods to international fashion stages.
The collection explored themes of conflict, aspiration, nostalgia, and identity — reflecting Coker’s upbringing around Mozart Street in Westminster. Pieces ranged from sculptural tailoring and corseted constructions to pleated skirts and British tartans reimagined through the lens of everyday life. Collectively, the clothes balanced discipline and softness, structure and playfulness, blurring the line between heritage and contemporary dressing.
The staging of the show was itself a narrative experience. The runway recreated elements of Coker’s “block,” complete with street lamps, murals of Black Londoners, and a live soundtrack courtesy of Little Simz, whose performance animated the set and amplified the collection’s storytelling energy.
A defining moment came when King Charles made a surprise front‑row appearance for the opening show — an experience Coker described as “divine alignment” given her early mentorship from the King’s Trust when she launched her label in 2018.
The King watched the show alongside design figures including Stella McCartney and British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir, underscoring the broader industry support behind emerging talent.
Survivor’s Remorse framed fashion as both a personal archive and a collective experience — garments that reverberated with memory while speaking to a broader narrative of social mobility, heritage, and redefined British identity.
Each silhouette — from cropped double‑breasted jackets to sailor‑inspired hats and pastel frock coats — offered a reflection of Coker’s lived experience, making FW26 one of the most lauded moments of this London Fashion Week season.
