BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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In a bold and historic move that’s already sending shockwaves through the global fashion industry, LVMH has confirmed that Jonathan Anderson will take the reins as the sole creative director of Dior. This appointment places Anderson in charge of the house’s women’s, men’s, and haute couture collections–a role that hasn’t been unified under one visionary since Christian Dior himself. It marks a seismic shift in Dior’s creative strategy and positions Anderson at the forefront of one of fashion’s most prestigious maisons during a turbulent moment for the luxury sector.
The Northern Irish designer, who rose to prominence through his eponymous label JW Anderson and later transformed Loewe into a cultural and commercial powerhouse, is widely recognized as one of the most forward-thinking and boundary-pushing creatives of his generation. At Loewe, Anderson redefined the Spanish luxury house with his avant-garde sensibilities and sharp narrative clarity, driving a remarkable 62.5% increase in profits to €207 million in 2023. His designs, which often play with gender, form, and historical references, attracted the attention of celebrities and collaborators alike. He notably designed costumes for Beyoncé’s Renaissance Tour and Rihanna’s iconic 2023 Super Bowl halftime performance.
Anderson’s new role at Dior arrives during a critical period for the brand. After years of consistent growth, Dior reported a sales drop to €8.7 billion in 2024 from €9.5 billion the previous year, reflecting broader challenges in the luxury industry. In response, Dior’s leadership made the strategic decision to consolidate its creative output under a singular vision. Delphine Arnault, the chair and CEO of Dior, described Anderson as “the most talented designer of his generation,” comparing his potential legacy to that of Karl Lagerfeld. She emphasized that his proven ability to build a brand within the LVMH ecosystem and his unique creative language made him the ideal candidate to steer Dior into a new era.
In a rare, in-depth interview with BoF’s Imran Amed, Dior’s executive team outlined the logic behind the appointment. By entrusting one designer with oversight of all creative lines, Dior hopes to unify its identity, sharpen its storytelling, and appeal to the modern luxury consumer, especially younger, digitally engaged audiences who crave both innovation and authenticity. This streamlined direction also signals Dior’s desire to adapt swiftly and cohesively in a market increasingly shaped by rapid cultural shifts and economic uncertainty.
Anderson’s first major test will come quickly: his debut Dior menswear collection is scheduled for June 27 in Paris. To accommodate this historic transition, the house will forgo the July 2025 haute couture shows–the first time Dior has skipped the event in its 78-year history. The delay is a clear sign of the magnitude of Anderson’s appointment and Dior’s commitment to offering a cohesive and powerful reintroduction under his vision. His womenswear debut is anticipated later in the year, and the fashion world will be watching closely to see how he balances the legacy of Dior with the contemporary edge he’s renowned for.
Despite his full immersion into Dior, Anderson will continue to lead his namesake label JW Anderson and maintain his long-running design collaboration with Japanese retail giant Uniqlo, demonstrating his unique ability to navigate both high fashion and accessible design spaces. However, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s departure from Dior also underscores a concerning trend: the increasingly limited number of women in top creative positions at major luxury houses. Chiuri had made history as Dior’s first female artistic director and was celebrated for her feminist approach to fashion. Her exit, though not surprising, adds to the ongoing dialogue about gender imbalance in fashion leadership.
Jonathan Anderson’s appointment isn’t just a personnel change, it’s a pivotal redefinition of Dior’s creative future. As one of fashion’s most revered institutions enters a new chapter, all eyes are now on Paris, where a singular vision will attempt to weave together the threads of tradition, innovation, and commercial revival. The stakes are high, but if anyone can rise to the challenge, it’s the designer who turned Loewe into a global sensation and redefined what modern luxury can look like.
