Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, crafted by guest designer Simone Rocha, delivers a captivating dialogue between historical elegance and modern sensuality. Rocha infused her signature darkly romantic aesthetic into Gaultier’s iconic elements, creating a collection that is both provocative and tender.
Drawing inspiration from Victorian fashion and Marie Antoinette’s era, Rocha used hand-crocheted and antique Irish lace, some dipped in metal, to construct voluminous dresses that balanced delicacy and strength. Corsetry, a hallmark of both designers was subtly reimagined, with translucent fabrics and intricate lacing celebrating femininity in a nuanced way.
A standout of the collection was Rocha’s reinterpretation of Gaultier’s famed cone bra, which was transformed into a thorn-like motif symbolizing feminine resilience and beauty. Sheer fabrics like nude silk organza played a significant role, offering a sense of sensuality while intricate embroidery and feathered red embellishments added depth and sophistication.
Gaultier’s signature Breton stripes appeared as sheer silk ribbon blouses, while sailor caps were reworked in nude satin, blending irreverence with sophistication.
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Footwear designs also reflected Rocha’s thoughtful fusion of historical and modern influences. Ballet-inspired shoes and Victorian-style heels were adorned with playful details, like hair-tail accents, echoing the whimsical yet refined tone of the collection.
The overall palette featured dusky, faded hues punctuated by black and Simone’s signature blood-red accents, adding both nostalgia and contemporary vibrance.
This collection honors Gaultier’s avant-garde legacy while amplifying Rocha’s romantic vision. By combining archival Gaultier references, such as pieces from “Le Défilé” and “The Age of Enlightenment,” with her intricate craftsmanship, Rocha created a stunning celebration of femininity that is both rooted in history and strikingly modern.