BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
No Comments
Tolu Coker’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “Olapeju,” is a heartfelt homage to her mother, Olapeju, whose name translates from Yoruba as “where wealth gathers.” Drawing inspiration from her mother’s fashion sensibilities during the late 1960s and 1970s, Coker delved into family photographs to capture the essence of that era. Despite their working-class background, her mother exhibited a keen eye for style, often sourcing clothing from car boot sales and charity shops, embodying resourcefulness and creativity.
The collection showcases a vibrant array of designs that reinterpret iconic ’60s and ’70s silhouettes. Coker incorporates sharp tailoring with high-cinched waists, A-line minis, and exaggerated collars, reflecting the sartorial codes of Yoruba style and draping. The use of upcycled and recycled materials underscores her commitment to sustainability, a value instilled by her mother’s thrifty practices.
© Tolu Coker
A notable feature of the collection is the inclusion of graphic prints inspired by 1970s wallpapers, reminiscent of the domestic spaces captured in photographs taken by Coker’s late father, Kayode Coker. His images documented the lives of the Nigerian and British communities in North Kensington, London, during that period. By integrating these prints, Coker pays tribute to her father’s legacy and the rich cultural tapestry of her heritage.
https://www.instagram.com/p/DBeod5My4nJ/?img_index=2&igsh=b2l6NDRoaGhobjV0
The runway presentation was a multisensory experience, transforming the show space into a late ’70s British-Nigerian living room. This immersive setting featured vintage furniture, projected ’70s wallpaper, and a live brass band playing Nigerian music, encapsulating the warmth and vibrancy of Coker’s familial home. The models, adorned in ’60s-inspired makeup, danced down the runway, culminating in an emotional finale where Coker embraced her mother, who was seated in the front row.
© Tolu Coker
The collection also highlighted collaborations, notably with milliner Virna Pasquinelli, resulting in headgear inspired by “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” one of her mother’s favorite films, and a beret she frequently wore. Additionally, Coker partnered with Manolo Blahnik to create three new boot styles using offcuts of deadstock leather, as well as incorporating 28 pre-existing silhouettes, emphasizing her dedication to sustainable fashion practices.
“Olapeju” stands as a testament to Tolu Coker’s ability to weave personal narratives into her designs, celebrating her mother’s influence and the broader cultural heritage of the Nigerian diaspora. By blending nostalgic elements with contemporary fashion, Coker not only honors her family’s legacy but also contributes to a more inclusive and sustainable future in the fashion industry.
