BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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Haider Ackermann‘s debut collection for Tom Ford at Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025 has been met with widespread acclaim, marking a significant moment in the fashion industry. The event, held on March 5, 2025, showcased Ackermann’s unique vision, seamlessly blending his signature aesthetic with the iconic Tom Ford brand.
The runway was adorned with fogged-up mirrors, creating an intimate and sensual atmosphere that complemented the collection’s theme. Ackermann’s designs featured sharp-shouldered tailoring and asymmetrical draping, appealing to a genderless audience. The opening looks incorporated leather elements, including side-zip moto jackets paired with tailored trousers and loosely cut tees, emphasizing the brand’s characteristic sensuality.
A notable highlight was the array of Technicolor suits with Ackermann’s signature peaked shoulders, exemplifying his mastery in balancing hard and soft materials. The collection explored the duality between masculinity and femininity, with suits remaining a central focus. The finale featured models, led by Kristen McMenamy, in classic, sharp suits in black and grey, paying homage to Ford’s legacy while introducing a modern twist.
The event attracted a star-studded audience, reflecting the high anticipation surrounding Ackermann’s inaugural collection. Among the attendees was actor Timothée Chalamet, a close friend and longtime collaborator of Ackermann, Kate Moss, Tom Ford himself next to Anna Wintour, Thom Browne, Law Roach, Daphne Guinness, Michele Lamy, Jared Leto, Letitia Wright and Michael Ward. Chalamet has been a prominent supporter, recently wearing custom Tom Ford suits designed by Ackermann at major events, including the Vanity Fair Oscars Party. Chalamet’s presence at the show underscored the strong bond between the actor and the designer. His fashion choices, often crafted by Ackermann, have consistently garnered attention, blending high fashion with casual streetwear and challenging traditional notions of men’s fashion.
Other notable celebrities in attendance included Tilda Swinton, known for her avant-garde style and close association with Ackermann. Swinton’s presence further highlighted the designer’s influence in Hollywood and the arts. Additionally, fashion icons and industry leaders filled the venue, eager to witness the new direction Ackermann would bring to Tom Ford.
Ackermann’s appointment as creative director was announced six months prior, generating significant buzz within the fashion community. His reputation for sharp tailoring, innovative designs, and a deep understanding of both menswear and womenswear positioned him as an ideal successor to Tom Ford. Ford himself expressed excitement about Ackermann’s appointment, stating, “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work… I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand.”
The collection’s success not only reinforces Ackermann’s prowess as a designer but also sets a promising trajectory for Tom Ford’s future. By honoring the brand’s legacy while infusing his distinct style, Ackermann has revitalized interest and set the stage for subsequent collections.
Fashion critics have lauded the debut, noting Ackermann’s ability to maintain the brand’s essence while introducing contemporary elements. The strategic use of materials, innovative silhouettes, and the subtle interplay of masculinity and femininity have been particularly praised.
As Paris Fashion Week continues, Ackermann’s collection for Tom Ford stands out as a testament to the harmonious blend of legacy and innovation, leaving fashion enthusiasts and industry insiders eager for what the brand will unveil next under his creative direction.
