BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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In what promises to be one of the most anticipated moments in high fashion this year, Glenn Martens will unveil his first-ever collection as Creative Director of Maison Margiela during Paris Haute Couture Week, set to run from July 7 to 10, 2025. This landmark debut will take the form of a couture presentation under the house’s revered Artisanal line for Fall/Winter 2025, marking a dramatic new chapter for the Maison following the departure of John Galliano after an influential decade-long reign.
Martens’ appointment signals a bold evolution for Margiela, as the house itself has declared this collection “the beginning of an inspiring new chapter,” one that will be deeply rooted in the maison’s original ethos while pushing the boundaries of contemporary couture. The brand’s statement emphasizes a continued commitment to innovation and avant-garde craftsmanship–values that resonate deeply with Martens’ own design philosophy.
Having risen to global acclaim through his transformative work at both Y/Project and Diesel, Martens is no stranger to the art of deconstruction and reinvention. His prior success designing a guest couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier in 2022, which garnered widespread critical acclaim, cemented his place as one of the most exciting creative forces in fashion today. That couture debut was defined by sculptural silhouettes, imaginative trompe l’oeil effects, and inventive tailoring techniques that merged historical reference with progressive, almost surrealistic design choices.
As he takes the reins at Margiela, industry watchers are eager to see how Martens’ signature “Glennisms”–his flair for using wires to create customizable shapes, his obsession with experimental fabrics, and his avant-garde approach to silhouette–will manifest within the context of Margiela’s storied couture tradition. Though specific details of the upcoming show remain tightly guarded, the anticipation is electric. The fusion of Martens’ fearless creativity with Margiela’s legacy of conceptual elegance will undoubtedly deliver one of the standout moments of the entire fashion calendar.
The show will form a key part of Paris Haute Couture Week, which will spotlight the pinnacle of artisanal excellence and boundary-pushing vision from July 7 through July 10, 2025.
As fashion enthusiasts and insiders mark their calendars, all eyes are on Martens to deliver a debut that not only lives up to the mythos of Maison Margiela but redefines it for a new era. Updates and exclusive coverage are expected to roll out across major fashion platforms and Margiela’s official channels as the show approaches.
