BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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On February 20, 2025, during London Fashion Week, designer Dimitra Petsa unveiled Di Petsa‘s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, titled “Reflections of Desire.” This collection delves into themes of female sexuality, desire, and the reclamation of the feminine gaze in art and fashion. Petsa drew inspiration from various literary works, including “Venus in Furs” and erotic literature, aiming to enrich visual language with a woman’s perspective.
The runway presentation featured models embodying diverse archetypes of sexuality, such as introspective artists, muses, and historical figures. Notably, Nigerian singer Ayra Starr and media personality Mia Khalifa graced the runway, adding depth to the narrative. The collection showcased Di Petsa’s signature “wet-look” dresses in gradient hues of red, black, and earthy brown, alongside bridalwear reimagined with body-sculpting designs adorned with pearls and fine silver chains.
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Ayra Starr’s appearance added a vibrant energy to the show, seamlessly blending the worlds of music and fashion. The outfit featured intricate and fluid fabrics, embodying the brand’s ethos of embracing the natural form. Her confident stride and charismatic aura captivated the audience, leaving a lasting impression on both attendees and fashion critics.
Petsa’s exploration extended to menswear, introducing thigh-sliced black suiting and chest-baring oxblood knits. The collection also featured straight wool blend coats with velvet accents and leather draped coats enhanced with vegan fur, reflecting untamed desires. A recurring motif was the inclusion of Petsa’s own writing, with designs incorporating open-book imagery and script details, symbolizing the eroticism of being “read” and understood.
The show was quite the experience, complemented by live Guzheng music composed by Flora Yin Wong and Greek poetry recitations by Petsa herself. The immersive atmosphere, combined with the thematic depth of the collection, underscored Di Petsa’s commitment to challenging societal norms and celebrating the complexities of female desire and identity.
