BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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Jacquemus has officially unveiled its magnificent Jacquemus Spring Summer 2027 collection, titled Le Bonheur(Happiness), hosting an intimate, open-air runway presentation in Corsica.
Set along the rugged, windswept path leading to the historic Phare de la Pietra on the Île-Rousse, the show functioned as a poetic love letter to slow Mediterranean summers, leveraging natural elements like warm morning light and coastal breezes to breathe fluid motion into avant-garde silhouettes.
The magnificent presentation successfully subverted traditional fashion constraints by leaning into raw, geographical elements.
The entire panoramic experience was seamlessly synchronized to a custom, newly orchestrated symphonic soundtrack composed and adapted by French electronic musician Para One, creating an unforgettable sensory milestone for the independent French label.
Fluidity and Wind-Swept Tailoring
Artisanal Textures: Shibori Pearl Leather and Feathers
An Impressionist Color Story
Modular Accessories: “Les Ballerines Pietra” and Geometric Totes
Collection Summary Breakdown
The collection moves fluidly between sharp minimalist tailoring and highly expressive, playful structures. Grounded in a deep desire to liberate premium textiles from structural stasis, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus experimented heavily with transparency and lightweight layering.
The outdoor runway showcased sheer tailored jackets and matching shorts engineered from delicate triple organza, dramatic floor-length robe coats that billowed with each step, and black chiffon gowns designed specifically to capture the coastal wind.
Subverting traditional menswear codes, the lineup emphasized cinched, highly defined waistlines, featuring technical taffeta suits with structured jackets tucked directly into tightly belted trousers.
Texture played an equally vital role, with the house deploying meticulous artisanal craftsmanship across sporty and organic frameworks.
A classic athletic tank silhouette was completely reimagined through paper-thin leather, bonded crepe, and borders treated with a traditional Japanese shibori technique—where fabric is bound tightly around physical pearls before their removal to leave a permanent, sculptural memory of their form.
“I imagined this collection like the summer itself. The sun, the colours, the beauty of simple things, the feeling of lightness. For me, this is happiness… le bonheur.” — Simon Porte Jacquemus
These clean, technical lines were dramatically contrasted against tiered taffeta skirts and voluminous evening pieces laden with cascades of red ostrich feathers, utilizing roughly 2,700 handcrafted feather bunches to mimic blooming coastal buds.
The painterly color palette of the Jacquemus Spring Summer 2027 range reads like a live-action Impressionist canvas, clashing soft, chalky pastels with sharp, saturated interruptions. A silk-wool trench coat arrived completely saturated in sun-soaked yellow, while a vibrant green shirt layered aggressively beneath a wool melange jacket.
Accessories echoed this naturalistic engineering: orange leather trousers were physically embossed to mimic the exact, dimpled micro-texture of citrus skin, while a standout gown was detailed with a sea of undulating silk organza bias strips that cascaded downward like moving seaweed.
The presentation’s footwear and accessory catalog introduced highly versatile, modular shapes built for ease of travel. Models marched across the coastal stones in strappy sandals wrapped over brightly colored socks, alongside the debut of Les Ballerines Pietra—an ultra-light ballerina flat specifically engineered to effortlessly fold in half.
On the bag front, the house brought back its supple leather The Valérie top-handle bag in an array of custom embroideries, alongside a spacious, sharp-angled new tote called Le Tote Pietra, recognizable by its geometric calisson-shaped structural base.
