Haider Ackermann has officially taken the creative reins at Tom Ford, presenting a AW26 collection that signals a thoughtful evolution rather than a simple continuation of the brand’s archive.
Ackermann draws inspiration from the sensuality of 1990s Gucci and 2000s Tom Ford, translating it through his signature tailoring and experimental approach.
Strong shoulders remain a nod to Tom Ford’s aesthetic, but asymmetrical cut-outs at the waist and low-slung trousers introduce tension and a contemporary edge. A thin belt, resting loosely at the hips, emerges as one of the collection’s most memorable details.
Material experimentation defines the collection. Heavy leathers and crocodile-embossed skirts are paired with transparent PVC raincoats, contrasting sharply with classic houndstooth suits.
This juxtaposition blends Ford’s luxurious DNA with Ackermann’s avant-garde sensibility, giving the collection a rhythmic and modern feel.
Under Ackermann, Tom Ford is more composed, intellectual, and restrained, expressing sensuality through structure rather than overt display.
The designer does not simply revisit the brand’s archive — he reinterprets it, infusing his own aesthetic and subtly reshaping the direction of one of fashion’s most iconic houses.



