Marni has entered a new era. The Italian fashion house announced Meryll Rogge as its new creative director, following the quiet departure of Francesco Risso, who held the role since 2016. The appointment was made official by OTB Group, the parent company behind Marni, Diesel, Maison Margiela, and Jil Sander, among others.
Rogge, a Belgian designer, is best known for her namesake label which she launched in 2020. Her work often blends strong tailoring with fluid silhouettes, drawing from a patchwork of references, her collections have frequently spotlighted reworked pieces, upcycled materials, and an offbeat sensibility that balances elegance with edge. Her background includes time at Dries Van Noten and Marc Jacobs, and she is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, a school known for producing some of fashion’s most innovative names.
Rogge is now the only female creative director in the OTB portfolio, a company that has recently reshuffled its leadership across multiple brands. The move also signals a shift for Marni. Under Francesco Risso, Marni moved toward experiential shows, tactile layering, and an almost childlike playfulness with print and texture. Now, with Rogge at the helm, the brand appears to be aiming for a more refined recalibration, still creative, but potentially more grounded.
Industry insiders have taken note of Rogge’s rise. In recent years, she’s been nominated for both the LVMH Prize and Woolmark Prize, and in 2024, she won the ANDAM Grand Prize, which came with mentorship and financial support. Those familiar with her personal line describe her aesthetic as quietly confident: never loud for the sake of attention, but always intentional in form and material.
Marni’s CEO, Stefano Rosso, stated that this next phase of the brand will be more focused and integrated, from design to marketing to retail. Speaking to Vogue Business, Renzo Rosso (chairman of OTB Group) called Rogge someone capable of “reinterpreting Marni’s DNA across all dimensions,” suggesting a vision that extends beyond clothing into accessories, spaces, and brand identity.
Meryll Rogge is expected to present her first collection for Marni in the coming seasons. Until then, all eyes are on how she will channel her nuanced and studied approach into a label that has long thrived on whimsy.