BEHIND THE STITCH: ALANI
June 21, 2024
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In a stunning display of fashion prowess, Saint Laurent‘s Creative Director, Anthony Vaccarello, unveiled the Women’s Summer 2025 collection in Paris, as part of Paris Fashion Week. The event took place at the brand’s iconic Left Bank headquarters at 37 Rue de Bellechasse, where a grand circular installation bathed in warm golden hues set the stage for a minimalist yet dramatic ambiance. This setting provided a seamless backdrop for Vaccarello’s exploration of “powerful femininity,” blending the house’s rich heritage with contemporary flair.
The collection drew heavily from the personal style of the house’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent, and his muse, Loulou de la Falaise. Models graced the runway in ensembles that seamlessly merged masculine and feminine elements. Oversized trench coats layered over loosely fitted suits with exaggerated shoulders paid homage to 1980s power dressing, while maintaining an effortless, casual elegance. These looks were complemented by classic ties, chunky gold bracelets, and angular sunglasses, reinforcing the brand’s signature blend of strength and allure.
Transitioning from structured tailoring, the collection embraced bohemian aesthetics with flowing tiered chiffon dresses and tunic blouses adorned with paisley prints. Paired with floor-length maxi skirts and edgy biker jackets, these outfits offered a fresh take on boho-chic, reflecting Vaccarello’s ability to balance contrasting styles. Accessories such as beaded necklaces and bracelets added depth, paying tribute to de la Falaise’s eclectic influence.
A notable highlight was the revival of 1980s-inspired glamour. The finale featured 15 designs showcasing shimmering cropped jackets with intricate floral patterns, seductive lace tops beneath mini dresses with wide necklines, and a striking interplay of brocade and lace fabrics in vibrant tones. This segment underscored Vaccarello’s commitment to reimagining classic styles through a modern lens, offering a refreshing perspective on women’s fashion.
Each of the 49 outfits presented was named after influential women associated with the brand and Vaccarello himself, including icons like Betty Catroux, Carla Bruni, Katoucha, Bettina, and Iman. This gesture served as a heartfelt tribute, weaving the legacy of these muses into the fabric of the collection.
The event attracted a star-studded audience, with celebrities such as Lenny Kravitz, Kate Moss, and Gwyneth Paltrow in attendance, adding to the show’s allure. Their presence underscored the brand’s enduring influence and its ability to captivate both the fashion elite and the public.
In the days following the show, the collection garnered significant attention from fashion critics and enthusiasts alike. Hailey Bieber, known for her bold fashion choices, was spotted embracing the collection’s aesthetic, donning a strong-shouldered gray suit reminiscent of the showcased designs. Her ensemble highlighted the collection’s versatility and its resonance with contemporary fashion icons.
The collection’s emphasis on minimalist opulence was evident in its restrained yet powerful silhouettes. Vaccarello’s mantra of “almost nothing” was reflected in the deliberate absence of overt extravagance, focusing instead on strong silhouettes, expert tailoring, and an aura of timeless glamour. This approach redefined luxury, proving that elegance often lies in the balance between boldness and understatement.
In essence, Saint Laurent’s Women’s Summer 2025 collection stood as a testament to the brand’s legacy of empowering women through fashion. By seamlessly blending masculine and feminine elements, and paying homage to the house’s storied past while looking forward, Vaccarello delivered a collection that resonated with strength, elegance, and modernity.
For those eager to experience the collection firsthand, the full runway show is available for viewing on Saint Laurent‘s official website, offering an immersive glimpse into the brand’s visionary approach to contemporary fashion.
